Unfortunately, my time was running out and after soaking up a few more extra days at Amed, it was time to head south back to the madness, that was Kuta and Legion, of course with a few detours along the way.
Kusamba, south of Amed, also has black beaches. I always seem to be drawn to the sea and thought this could be a good pitstop before heading back inland to Ubud, to spend my last night with Ketut at Pager Bungalows and collect my belongings I had left in her safe keeping.
The moment I parked the car, children appeared everywhere, asking questions, trying to sell me all manner of items and followed me down to the beach.
They walked along the beach with me, until finally, I gave in and bought some beaded necklaces from them. Happy with their sales, they left me to my own devices to walk along the beach in peace.
I came across a hut and a family raking the black sand. Puzzled to know why they were raking the beach, I approached to find out why.
They are salt farmers. I found this youtube clip that shows how it is done.
Grateful of their hospitality and kindness, to down tools and show me the process, I bought some salt from them. Packaged in a cute, woven basket that I still use for salt, to this day. These days I store, the pretty pink Murray Valley Salt at 10 times the price I paid for the tasty Kusamba Salt.
Perhaps because of the chaos of children trying to sell me their goods when I first arrived, I had managed to misplace the car keys and decided I must have locked them in the car. It seemed half of Kusamba came to my rescue, trying to work out how to help me break into the car, when finally I found them, at the bottom of my bag!
Heading for Ubud, with the fake Swiss Army knife, I had bought for Made at Klungkung, I realised I didn't have a gift for Ketut, except for a few large shells I took from the beach at Candidasa to give her to use as soap holders in her rooms.
When I spotted a roadside store along the way, I decided to stop and see what they had on offer. With most of the village gathered around, perhaps a little amused and confused by my purchases.
I started with a large basket, that I had filled with rice. Remembering Ketut was fond of painting her nails, I grabbed a few bottles of nail polish, a couple of tubes of lipstick, added them to the basket along with, galangal, garlic, chillies, dried fish, fresh vegetables. A gift basket with a difference.
The small village road side store owners, and curious on lookers, with smiling amused faces, waved goodbye as I continued my journey.
Ketut and Made greeted me as a long lost friend and were surprised and genuinely moved with their gifts. Made, in particular, knowing his new sharp knife came from his home town, Klungkung.
Later that night, as Ketut painted her nails, Made tested out his new knife, and made me another grasshopper.
As promised they kept my belongings safe and helped me pile everything back into the car, before I headed off for Legion.
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