Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Heading To North Western Bali With A Cut Lunch

Sadly, it was time to leave Amed, my new found friends of  Wawa Wewe and continue the journey north.  My mission to drive right around the island of Bali.

After many goodbyes and well wishes, they packed me into the car with a cut lunch!  This was such a thoughtful gesture, a cheese sandwich and a banana.  The hospitality of Wawa Wewe was remarkable and never ending.

Next stop was Les, to visit the magnificent waterfall, freshen up in the cool water and chat to an unwanted but persistent 'guide' who tagged along.

A lunch break at Yah Sanih and further on to Kalibukbuk, in the Lovina area, to find somewhere to stay.

I had heard many good reports about Lovina, and I don't want to talk ill of it.  It was a long time ago since I was there and probably a lot has changed.  However my experience, all those years ago wasn't as favourable as Amed.  

Kalibukbuk beach was not clean and crystal like Amed and there was a 'different' vibe to the place.   I started feeling homesick for Amed.

Minutes after lying on the beach, I was surrounded by touts, selling anything from, fruit, necklaces, timber dolphins, snorkelling trips and ice creams!  The only way to escape was to find a bar and have a Bintang beer.

This was not the relaxing experience, sitting amongst the fishing boats, dozing in the sun, watching the school children,  run down to fish after school.

Continuing the journey,  I headed for Pemuteran and started looking for new digs.  Now I was finally in the North Western part of Bali and 3/4 the way around the island. Next stop would be the National Park, a few more stops and then back in Legion for a night or two and then back to Australia.

My time was running out and it made me anxious.

Especially so,  when I came across a place where I thought I would stay.  The English owners of the establishment were delightfully rude.  They assured me, I would get a room to myself,  for $200.00 AUD a night.  Well you would think so,  for that kind of money.  The beach was not nice, the 'resort' nothing in particular.

 Did I really need to drive all the way around Bali, just to say I did.  Or,  would I rather be spending my last few days,  sitting back at Amed, on the quiet beach.  Watching the fishermen come in at dawn, listening to the singing from the mountains as I went to bed.

You couldn't see me for dust.  A quick U-turn and I was heading south.  I had 130kms to drive, which given the traffic and condition of the roads, takes about 3-4 hours.  I had to step on it to make it back before dark!

The journey back, was quite an adventure.  People don't hurry in Bali.  I often heard, if you don't do it today, there is always tomorrow.   Bali time.

Traffic, pot holes, people walking on the street, animals wandering around and a funeral procession.

The funeral procession took quite some time to pass.  At first I couldn't work out what was going on.  A traffic jam, that can't be.  Then ahead I could see a tall tower.  As I got closer I noticed that many men were carrying this tall tower.  Then they would stop.  The tower was so tall and the electricity wires so low - I wasn't sure how they were going to negotiate this.  Of course, they improvised and were prepared.  The tower had a hinged, flip back section towards the top.

The bearers would stop, lower the the tower, that rested on bamboo poles, on their shoulders.  Someone would lift the power lines with a long stick, the bearers moved the tower under the power lines, put the flip back shut, hoisted the tower back to their shoulders and off again, drums and cymbals clanging all the time.  Until the next power line ....



Maybe this was sign, maybe I should have continued my journey north.  The moment I saw a local pass by slowly, I followed suit and was on my way once again.

Passing village after village, until dusk was nearing.  My next obstacle,  I wasn't expecting.  Families were heading down to the storm water drains, to bath and wash their clothes for the evening.

Finally I made it back to Amed in record time.

Surprised, familiar, smiling faces welcomed me.   My friend, you came back, they cheered.  They piled all my belongings back in my room while I had a much needed Bintang.

I headed down to the beach.  Took a deep breath and was happy that I could see my feet through the clean, clear water.

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